Just a few steps from the bustling streets of Bordeaux, a curious Roman ghost lurks among the facades. With its stone arches and open-air ruins, the Palais Gallien seems to have weathered the centuries without ever truly revealing all its secrets. Once the amphitheater of Burdigala, it was once the scene of spectacular performances. But hidden within its stones are also tales of witches, treasures, and black masses. So, what really happened within these walls?
A palace that isn’t really a palace
Don’t be fooled by its name: the Palais Gallien was actually a Roman amphitheater . Built in the 2nd century, it is today one of the oldest reminders of the Roman presence in Bordeaux. Its dimensions give a sense of the spectacles that must have taken place there: approximately 130 meters by 110, with a capacity of nearly 20,000 spectators.
Gladiator fights, battles with animals, and performances once brought the arena and the city to life. Today, only a portion of the imposing structure remains. Yet its arches and limestone walls are enough to give a sense of the monument’s grandeur.
From public venue to protected site
The Palais Gallien wasn’t always the peaceful ruin we know today. Just a few decades after its construction, the amphitheater was ravaged and set ablaze during the Frankish invasions. In the Middle Ages, the site was gradually abandoned and dismantled, and its stones were reused to build other structures.
The French Revolution marked a new chapter in this turbulent history. The amphitheater became a public quarry, and its land was sold off in lots. Two new streets were even cut through the ruins in 1792. The ruins were ultimately spared from total destruction. In 1800, Prefect Antoine Thibaudeau issued a decree to protect them. This decision was crucial in enabling Bordeaux to preserve this precious fragment of its ancient past.
Witches, Treasure, and Other Legends
But perhaps the most fascinating aspect lies in the stories that the Palais Gallien has inspired. For centuries, its isolated ruins have fueled the imaginations of the people of Bordeaux.
The first mystery concerns its name. In the Middle Ages, it was said that these ruins were those of a palace built by Charlemagne for his wife Galiène, a figure who is, however, absent from the emperor’s official history. In the 16th century, scholars believed the monument might have been associated with Gallienus, a 3rd-century Roman emperor. Officially, the exact origins of its name remain unknown to this day.
For a long time, the ruins have carried a scandalous reputation. Duels, outcasts, and prostitutes frequented the area. Gradually, rumors began to circulate about sabbats and black masses held within the ruins. Legend even has it that wizards and witches would gather there at night, after flying through the air on animals or broomsticks. A mysterious treasure is also said to have been hidden somewhere beneath the stones. It has never been found.
However, a few ancient coins, notably attributed to Gallienus, Postumus, and Tetricus, have been discovered on the site. Enough to keep the mystery alive a little longer…
Practical Information:
📍 126 Rue du Docteur Albert Barraud, 33000 Bordeaux
🎫 Free admission: visible from Rue du Docteur Albert-Barraud and Rue du Colisée
