In the Dordogne Valley, some villages play the card of discretion… at least on the surface. Castelnaud-la-Chapelle is the perfect example. Overlooking the river, this medieval village, well known for its imposing fortress, nevertheless harbors other wonders. With its steep alleyways and spectacular scenery, this village—ranked among the most beautiful in France—offers a rich and nuanced getaway, less than 3 hours from Bordeaux.
A charming village in the hills of the Périgord
Perched on a rocky outcrop, Castelnaud-la-Chapelle proudly overlooks the confluence of the Dordogne and Céou rivers. Across from it, Beynac-et-Cazenac seems to respond, in a face-off that has lasted for nearly a thousand years. The village is laid out in terraces, connected by cobblestone streets and charming vaulted passageways. As you stroll through, the golden facades reveal slate roofs, finely carved half-timbering , and dovecotes—guardians of the Périgord’s heritage.
Tip: The hike is worth the effort but remains accessible. Leave your car in the riverside parking lots to enjoy the climb on foot. The hike then becomes a true immersion, punctuated by wisteria, vineyards, and flower-filled nooks.
The castle, an iconic feature of the landscape
It’s impossible to take your eyes off Castelnaud Castle. This massive structure, built in the 13th century, stands as a privileged witness to the Hundred Years’ War. Long held by the English, it served as the antagonistic counterpart to Beynac, which remained loyal to the French crown. Abandoned after the Revolution, the castle gradually fell into ruin, even serving as a stone quarry. It wasn’t until its designation as a Historic Monument in 1966 that it regained its former splendor.
Today it is home to the Museum of Medieval Warfare, whose collections are impressive in their richness. Its collections of weapons, armor, and impressive siege engines captivate visitors of all ages. Far from being a static museum, the site comes alive with blacksmithing demonstrations and mock duels.
Between rivers and castles, nature waiting to be explored
Castelnaud extends beyond its fortified walls. Several hamlets surround it, dotted with unassuming châteaux such as Fayrac or Lacoste. A little further on, the charming Château des Milandes, the former home of Josephine Baker, offers a more romantic interlude.
For lovers of the great outdoors, there is no shortage of options. On land, the Céou bike route offers a bucolic, flat path, ideal for families. On the water, the Dordogne, once a trade route for gabarres (traditional flat-bottomed boats), can now be explored by canoe, kayak, or paddleboard to admire the cliffs from a different angle. Finally, those curiousabout local history can take a detour tothe Walnut Ecomuseum. It’s another way to discover the treasures of the Périgord.
